We had set our alarms to 2:30am, expecting to load our motorcycles onto the ferry after 3:00am. At 1:00am a young gentleman came knocking on our door, alerting us to the fact that we should urgently get down to the dock. By 2:00am the bikes were loaded, and we caught a few more hours of sleep.

Unable to find hot water for our instant coffee at the hotel (there was nobody around), we walked out into the very empty carpark. I waved halfheartedly at a car that was just setting off at the over end – they drove by at first but then turned around and picked us up, offering to take us to Quryk village.